Mt. Hood, Sunshine, June 2000:
best climb on the mountain

Bob Breivogel led a Mazamas outing on what many have said, and so far, I agree, is the best route on the mountain. We had some clouds early on, but the weather cleared and warmed as the day advanced. There is a nice steep section above the snow dome (gotta go back and ski the dome now that I feel like I can maybe actually tele-ski off-piste!) The Queen's Chair, a small flat area about 500 feet below the top of Cathedral ridge is a really cool place. Then traversing the ridge above the West Crater rim route, looking down on the stunning Yokum ridge - all very cool.

We had a bit of excitement on the descent. We started down the spur ridge north off Cathedral ridge, then started traversing back toward the Snow Dome, and came to a short ice cliff that we had to belay down. I went next to last, and place an ice screw to belay Bob down. The ice screw that I had asked Bob If I should bring along, and ne said he'd never needed on this route. But I took anyway - it's light, what the hey, I want to get a chance to practice placing them. Anyway, I placed it hanging from my axe, just to see if I could, then belayed Bob as he downclimbed last - and what does he do but take a short fall right onto my screw - that could have twisted an ankle or worse if he had dropped the remaining few feet onto the sloping ice below!

I should have taken note of Bob's opinions on the lack of need for gear - see Mt Jefferson in 2001...

snow dome ascent   elliot gl   crux   ridge descent   icefall descent   icefall belay