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Future climb ideas:
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Tentative list for 2008:
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Rainier, DC, my daughter's college graduation climb, July 19 . 13 years since I summitted Rainier, I'm overdue.
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- Forbidden East Ridge Direct (5.8) (party of 4/6)
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- Sharkfin Tower (party of 4/6)
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- Temple Crag - Sill traverse, Palisades, Sierras.
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- Stuart standard N. Ridge (5.7, 20-ish pitches, bivvy)
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Washington Pass outing, August 8-11: 3 days of multipitch climbing in the Libery Bell group, Wine Spires, and Kangaroo Temple. See routelist for route options.
Other ideas, big goals:
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Chimney Rock East Face Direct, 5.6, 7p (3 5th-class, the rest 3rd and 4th) I'd like to try traversing off to the SW on the descent, exploring a small part of my "21 peaks" ridge traverse project (below). OK, I'd just like to get the route done on this "man-mountain"!
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Bugaboos, esp:
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- Bugaboo Spire, NE Ridge 5.7 10p (The plum from 50 classics!)
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- Snowpatch Spire: Krause-McCarthy, 5.8+ 8p, or SW Ridge 5.8+ 6p
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- Pigeon Spire W Ridge 5.4
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- Beckey-Chouinard (5.10 12p?)
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Rainier, Kautz Glacier. 10 years since I summitted Rainier, I'm overdue.
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My new dream (nightmare?) project: "The Brothers Marathon", or "21-Peak
Salute"! It's just NE of Snoqualmie pass. Peaks include (in clockwise
order) the Three Queens (one 5.5 pinnacle), the Four Brothers, Chickamin
Peak, the five peaks of Lemah Mt. (one is technical in both directions),
and the big objective, a selected route on Chimney Rock in the 5.3-5.7 range,
depending on route (there are several).
After one exploratory trip to scope the route August 2003, I see there is
lots more exploring to do...email me if interested for 2006!
More background info
Map with route options
TOPO elevation profile
TOPO! file (requires topo CD)
map of larger area
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Need to try Shasta Hotlum-Boland again - or maybe Hotlum-Wintun Ridge, I
hear it's a bit more ski-friendly direct route to the summit.
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Jefferson Milk Creek Gully - continuous 600 foot, avg 25, max 45 degree
descent, short approach! (At least so it appears on the topo.) Looks
like a good June trip for intermediate+ skiers. I talked to a guy
recently who loves it and has skiied it 6 times! Sine I summitted last
year, I'm likely interested in skipping the summit pinnacle, so we could
go light without climbing gear just for the ski descent. Must be done
early-season.
Map with route options
TOPO! file (requires topo CD)
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St. Helens, Worm Flows ski descent. That is, as soon as they let us on the mountain again to look at the new, growing lava dome!
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Royal Basin/the Needles in the Olympics - a nice base camp
surrounded by a dozen rock climbs to 5.7, mostly arrayed along the ridges
above the bowl - including Mts. Deception, Martin, Johnson, and Clark,
the Incisor, Gasp, Sweat, Arrowhead pinnacles, etc. - the best collection
of easy rock climbs in the Olympics, it seems. There seems to be a straighforward
ridge loop that would hit most of the major peaks. I exhumed
this from the Olympic Mountains Climber's guide I picked up at a garage
sale of a recently deceased old climber (natural causes), along with copies
of Nick Dodge and the second Ballantine edition of Tom Hornbein's Everest:
the West Ridge.
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Sisters Marathon one-way, from McKenzie pass to Mt. Bachelor (maybe not
including climbing Bachelor!)
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Mt. Stuart N. Ridge - do the standard route this year - I've already had
the fun struggle of the full direct N' Ridge...
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Wine Spires - good 5.8 multi-pitch climbs near North Cascades Highway.
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One of the long 5.7/5.8 routes on Dragontail: possibly NW Buttress, which is very long, or the Serpentine Arete: sound rock to 5.8, continuously steep.
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Mt. Slesse, NW Buttress - another 50-classics route.
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And my ultimate high-altitude goal, Denali (since Patti won't let me go to
the Himalayas...)
Other ski mountaineering trip ideas:
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Mt Ruth - a recommended easy N. Cascades ski tour, fabulous views of dozens of peaks.
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Sahalie - the classic N. Cascades ski ascent.
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Mt. Daniel - ski or not: supposedly it's a good ski tour.
A longer list of objectives.